Exploring Free-Standing-Lace

by MaryCatherine McCoyMost types of machine embroidery have their heritage in hand embroidery.  Redwork and counted cross-stitch are familiar examples of manual embroidery stitches which have made a successful transition into the world of computerized machine embroidery.  However, some techniques are unique to the digital embroidery world.  One of these is free-standing-lace (FSL), also called stand-alone-lace (SAL).

At DesignsBySiCK.com, there are many FSL designs and collections.  You can see them here:
http://www.designsbysick.com/search?firstword=fsl
In a previous article, the basics of FSL were discussed with step-by-step instructions.  Discover it here:
http://www.designsbysick.com/articles/guide-to-fsl/

If you’ve read that article and tried some free-standing-lace designs, you may be interested in exploring other applications of FSL designs.  For example, two questions frequently asked about FSL designs are 1) can I re-size FSL designs? and 2) can I embroider FSL designs on regular fabric?

The answer to Question #1 is usually no.  FSL designs are digitized to stand alone, that is, the finished FSL embroidery stitch-out does not need any fabric support.  During the digitizing process, the designer programs some stitches that are purely decorative and some stitches to provide support after the stabilizer is completely dissolved.  If you enlarge most FSL designs, then the supporting stitches may be spread too far apart to provide a complete network.  In layman’s terms, an enlarged design might fall apart when the stabilizer is dissolved.  In our earlier article, our writer described how to use tulle or netting for faux FSL.  Tulle is great insurance.  So, if there’s a FSL design you really want to enlarge, consider using the tulle suggestion.  It may provide support for an enlarged design, but it may be too visible for your personal preference.  How can you be sure?  Do a sample stitch-out.  Remember, though, if you decide to use tulle or netting for any FSL design, then the tulle needs to be cut or trimmed away after stitching.

On the other hand, if you reduce the size of most FSL designs, then all the stitches (decorative and supportive) may be crammed together too tightly.  The result:  potentially broken needles during sewing, and a very stiff embroidery stitch-out. Some say it’s almost ‘bullet-proof’.  If you have software that allows you to adjust the design’s density or edit the stitches, then you might consider removing some of the stitches to reduce that stiffness.  A cautionary note:  if you reduce stitches on a FSL design, you may accidentally remove the supporting or underlay stitches.  If you do remove those critical stitches, then the design will not be free-standing when the stabilizer dissolves.  Again, in layman’s terms, it might fall apart.  Solution:  tulle or netting may provide support.  Embroider an entire test stitch-out for complete assurance.

The answer to Question #2 is usually yes.  Even though a design was created and digitized as free-standing, it may also be stitched directly on fabric.  The embroidery police are not coming to your house, so feel free to experiment.  If you’re embroidering a FSL design on fabric, then, as a guideline, select a stabilizer based upon the fabric; not the design.  For example, if you’re stitching a FSL design onto a knit T-shirt, then a cut-away stabilizer is probably the best backing choice.  To illustrate, we selected a FSL Dragonfly from DesignsBySiCK.com
See the entire collection here:
http://www.designsbysick.com/details/fsldragonflies

Then, we paired this very delicate lace design with a heavy-duty woven denim tote bag.

Since it’s a woven textile, we choose a tear-away stabilizer.  And another departure from the usual FSL set-up:  we used embroidery thread on top and bobbin thread in the bobbin.  Here’s how the inside of the unlined bag looks after FSL embroidery:

Finally, here’s how the finished tote bag looks:

In conclusion, free-standing-lace (FSL) is a great technique.  Have fun with FSL basics, but don’t stop there.  Use your machine, your designs & your other resources to discover even more embroidery fun.