by Patricia Haufschildt
What does FSL mean? FSL is representative of Free-Standing-Lace, which are stand alone lace embroidery designs that are done with thread only (with the exception of one’s machine, hoop & stabilizer).
To create FSL you will also be using (as your stabilizer) WSS or Water-Soluble-Stabilizer, which is a non-woven dissolvable product prefect for lace projects. FSL designs have a somewhat dense and complex grid of underlay stitching which supports the embroidery after the design is completed and the WSS is washed out.
My personal preference is to purchase rolls of this type of product because there is less wastage that way, especially since I opt to use two layers of WSS for my FSL projects. I do find though, that WSS tends to leave some lint, so I advise performing a good clean up regularly, so be sure to de-lint, clean, & oil your bobbin area after each FSL project.
When stitching FSL, generally I find the best upper tension to be set between 2.5 to 3.0. The lower tension should not have to be changed.
There are other lacy projects that resemble FSL, though they are not truly FSL, but reather get their stability by being stitched on organza or tulle. Most digitizers will note if a design ‘looks’ like FSL but really isn’t. It would be a mistake to try to treat such a design as FSL because those designs are not connected the same way as true FSL, therefore when you rinse out your WSS they would simply fall apart.
When you stitch this sort of ‘faux lace’, you will be making a sort of sandwich:
1. Wash-Away – top
2. Organza or tulle – middle
3. Wash-Away – bottom
After making the sandwich, place it in the hoop. Make sure the fabric sandwich is taut, since if the hooped material is not tight enough, you’ll experience a design that doesn’t line up. Also of note, the smaller the hoop the more stable your sandwich and project results will be.
Remember, never over-tighten your hoop screw. If you do find that the fabric doesn’t seem to hold tight, you may indeed have a stripped hoop screw, to check, remove the screw and check the center. If it looks stripped it will need to be replaced.
Editor’s addition: Don’t discard the screw, as you’ll need it if you don’t get the replacement from your dealer. Oftentimes you can get the screw you need right away at your local hardware store. You need the old screw to get the proper pitch and size screw, don’t be afraid to ask for help at the hardware store. AddYou may want to opt for a stronger screw such as stainless steel, which are much more durable and available at most hardware stores (which carry screws of all types). Additionally, you may find this option much more affordable as well. Take your hoop along to make sure the new screw can be used effortlessly, as you never want the tightening to be a struggle in any way, which would be a good indicator the screw is not the right size or pitch.
If you like a particular design, you will want to journal your notes, including the machine settings you used, type of thread, stabilizer type & brand, needle type and anything else you may wish to make note of. Getting into such a habit will save you testing time the next time you use that design.
Always make a test stitch-out if you haven’t done the design before to make sure you are selecting the correct threads, needle, stabilizer & settings for your machine. Y ou don’t have to do the whole design, just enough to test it. Whenever possible, you may want to staple your resultant test to the related journal page as a sample.
Thread options: FSL designs can be embroidered using rayon, polyester, or cotton embroidery threads depending on the effect you want. Because FSL designs are two sided, you will be using the same thread at the spool (top level) as you will on the bottom level (bobbin). To save myself time, I wind several bobbins of each color thread needed. To keep my project threads separated I use Bobbin Savers (in fact, I prefer to have one for each different project I’m working on for quick & easy access).
In spite of this, you will still be facing many thread changes, if nothing else in bobbin changes alone. This means the hoop will be removed more frequently than in most designs. Be very careful when either removing or re-installing your hoop, you must be gentle with it, since it doesn’t always take much to either loosen a design or have the inner hoop pop out. Once that happens there is really no way to reset the hoop exactly where you need it to be effectively lined up and still continue with your project because it would be very difficult to achieve that level of alignment. Avoid bumping your hoop accidentally as well, which can throw off the rest of ANY design.
Needle options: Opt for using Titanium #11 or #14 depending on the density of the design. I found the #14 works best for me because all the designs I like are very dense.
After stitching, cut out the design to trim excess stabilizer. Place the project into a bowl of warm water to wash away remaining stabilizer. WSS dissolves very quickly, so a minute or two seems to be sufficient. Avoid squeezing or rubbing the design. Any residual stiffness depends on the length of time the project was in the bowl of water. Finish by air drying your project on a piece of wax paper.
Depending on the plumbing conditions in your home, it is wise to discard of the residual water outside as the now dissolved WSS floating around in that water oftentimes can contribute to build up and clogs in your plumbing.
For a finishing touch, place your design between a press cloth. Hold your iron above the design and steam, but avoid touching the iron to the lace, then air dry again.
Excellent step by step, over the shoulder, helps from an expert. Almost as good as having the “tudor” in my sewing room. Thanks, Pat
I am new to doing FSL although I have been doing mach. emb. for 15 yrs. I didn’t do it sooner because ofthe stitch count. I am just courious ifyou know of a way to attacj FSL to a large pillar type of candle.Naturally it wouldn’t be lit but used strictly as display, table centerpiece. I appreciate you time in posting this “tut” Thanks again.
Excellent Article! Thanks so much for the info! I did some snowflakes not long ago using Sulky Solvy and it was disasterous. I have since switched to lace base & I love it. I have not tried to organza faux lace yet. I will also get some titanium needles (which I was not using).
Thanks again for all the good info.
Great article! Wish I had had this before I made 30 FSL crosses for choir robe stoles for my church!
Thank you.I found this article very interesting.I appreciate any “how too’s”. Marilyn.
Great article. I do a lot of fsl but never thought of using tulle or organza in middle. Thanks for the tip.
Very simple, yet terrific information on this type of embroidery. It is unusual for me to take the time to read the entire contents of instructions, but this was the exception to the rule…..short and all the necessary info to do it!
Thanks,
Maria
Great Tutorial–FSL is an “addiction”! I dry my FSL between two large sheets of plastic canvas which keeps it nice and flat. Lj
God Bless You, I have wanted to try this for months and had no idea, how to start, your directions were a Blessing. Thanks
Very informative article especially to someone like me who doesn’t know much about FSL. Thank you!
I like this article, and Yes, me too read everything that you put in the web site. Thanks, I love FSL and I am looking for more angels…anyone knows where to find them “free”
Thanks for the great article.
Hi
Is the angel one of your pieces? Thanks for the great article.
To fmd36 – Mar. 24 Re: Attaching FSL to Candle
You could glue the FSL directly to the candle using glue made for candles. Check for it a any large craft store.
However, I would glue or hand stitch it to a organza ribbon glued or stitched to form a sleeve for going around the candle. This would allow for easy changing of the FSL and ribbon color to go with the season.
This was great i havent tried it yet but i really want to now I wont be so afraid to as soon as i get some needle today Thanks
What will pour our water solution do to the outside invironment, ie. grass, flowerbeds, trees?
For the one wanting to attach FSL to a candle.
If you want it to become part of the candle you can place the FSL directly to the candle after removing the stabilizer (while still wet) (the excess stabilizer still remaining on the FSL acts like a glue and will adhere firmly)when that dries, you can also at this point redip the pillar candle in another lay of wax.(welt wax chips of desired color using a double boiler method- I use a small metal coffee can. just enough wax to cover the candle. (I usually test the level with water then make a mark on the can so I know I will have enough wax, dump the water out and dry the can)Melt wax, then turn off heat source but leave the can in the double boiler. holding the candle wick with pliers I dip the candle into the wax then set it on a piece of waxed paper. let set. Additional layers of wax can be used until you get the look you want, more layer seems to add smoother lines. This way you can burn the candle until it reaches the design level.
It is also fun to use some of the leftover residual water. using your finger spread it over the candle then add glitters/ sparkles or even extra colorful threads left from trimmings. then redip candles. many fun options.
Thanks for the article, I will try some FSL now!
If I stitched a FSL border using a “sandwich” with tulle, then attached it to a garment, would
I need to take the border off before washing the
garment? If I don’t, will the FSL border disintegrate in the wash?? Sorry for being so
ignorant but I am new to FSL. Having a lot of fun
though using 2 layers of AquaMesh and stitching
away.
I love the angel in your article and would like to try it but cannot find it on your site. Can you give me the location?
Thank you.
Joanne
All this information has been helpful to me, it sure makes the end product look more professional, thank you for the help.
Loved the article……..I’m new to the computer, so not smart enough to be able to download a design..so I just buy the design cards. ……..any information to assist in this problem would be greatly appreciated
[Helen, look for an email from me- I will gladly teach you how to download. huggers, rob - Support-Designs By SiCK]
At the end of this article, you have a picture of a lace angel. Where did you get the angel design from? If you have it in stock, what is the info on it?
Your articles are very helpful.
Thanks
If using FSL as a border no you do not have to remove it before washing, but it will not be stiff after washing. You can starch it or dissolve some of your left over solvy and use it as a spray on the lace. This has worked for me in the past. Good luck
A bit of genius work by my husband in retreading a stripped screw. Remove screw from the hoop, run super glue around the screw where the stripping has occurred. Allow it to dry completely before putting it back into the hoop. Now when you put the screw back into the hoop, you create a new tread you need to hold it.
At the end of the article is a beautiful angel. Can you please tell me where I can get the pretty angel design?
Thanks, Theresa