Free Standing Lace by Andee in AZ and Vicky Krupka

Free Standing Lace

DEFINITION: Freestanding lace (FSL) designs are designs that have been digitized to “stand alone”, or “free”, without fabric or stabilizer to support them. These designs are able to stand on their own because of the dense underlay that has been added to the design and which gives them the support needed sans fabric or stabilizer.

STABILIZERS: Stabilizers used for FSL are made of a soluble material that easily washes away in warm water. These stabilizers are commonly referred to as water-soluble stabilizers (WSS). There are two basic kinds of WSS. The first, also referred to as aqua film, is plastic appearing and see-through (similar to a heavy Saran Wrap®). The two most common brands of this type are Solvy® and Badgemaster®. The second type of WSS has the look and feel of regular fabric and is not transparent. Some of the brands found in this category are Aqua-Magic®, Vilene® , Sol-U-Web®, and H2O-Gone®.

While both types of WSS will get the job done, film stabilizers tend to stretch and perforate more than the textile type. An informal survey done by one embroidery site found that those who sew FSL tend to prefer the fabric-like stabilizers because they do not stretch and are less likely to perforate while sewing. However, it has been noticed that the use of the textile stabilizer may cause additional lint build-up, so be sure to clean out the bobbin case area often.

ADDITIONAL STABILIZING: Some FSL designs do not have sufficient enough underlay stitches to support the design once the stabilizer is removed. For those designs, a layer of organza or very fine tulle can be hooped along with the stabilizer to provide the additional support needed. Depending on the color and type of organza used, this can also add an extra dimension to the design, along with the needed stability.

THREAD: Use the same thread for both top and bobbin threads (40/60wt) for an even look to the lace. If doing a multi-colored piece this means you will need to change both the top thread and the bobbin thread at each color change. Don’t hesitate to experiment with colors – try using variegated thread, or a different color bobbin thread versus top thread for a unique look. (If using two different colors, make sure the tension is set so that the top and bottom threads meet equally in the middle.) If the lace will be laundered frequently and/or bleached, polyester thread is preferred over rayon. Using cotton thread will give a softer, more handmade look to the finished piece of lace. However, if using cotton thread, please remember to clean out the bobbin area more often due to lint buildup.

NEEDLE: The recommended needle size for FSL is 75/ll. A bigger needle may cause more perforation of the stabilizer. It is recommended to start with a new needle for the best results.

HOOPING: Place the stabilizer in the hoop, making sure it is as tight as possible. While many have great luck with only one layer of stabilizer, others prefer two layers. It is a matter of choice whether to use one or two layers and some experimentation might be needed to see which works best for you. If you are having a problem keeping the hoop tight because of the thinness of the stabilizer, try using Wonder Tape® or line the hoop with a double-stick tape to help keep the stabilizer from slipping.

It is recommended to use the smallest hoop applicable for the project. Using an unnecessarily large hoop gives the stabilizer more opportunity to slip and thus the possibility of misaligned stitches. With FSL this can be a big problem. If anchoring stitches are not perfectly aligned, the design may fall apart once the stabilizer is rinsed out – not only frustrating, but also a big waste of time and thread! It is also recommended to stitch out only one design in the hoop at a time, again, to prevent additional stress and stretching of the stabilizer.

FIXING HOLES: The nice part about FSL is that it is easy to repair holes that might occur while sewing, or mess ups in the stitching. If the stitching causes a hole in the stabilizer, place a piece of leftover WSS over the hole (a piece can be added underneath as well for extra stabilizing if preferred), back up the machine to just before the hole and re-stitch that area. This can also be done if the thread bunches up in an area causing a knotted mess. Just cut out that area, patch with stabilizer and re-sew over it.

RINSING: Once the design is sewn, remove it from the hoop. Cut the stabilizer away from around the design, leaving as little stabilizer as possible without cutting into the stitching. If the design requires assembling (bowls, doilies, etc.), assemble it as directed before rinsing out the stabilizer. Washing out the stabilizer before assembling can leave the lace a bit stiff and/or distorted, making it difficult to assemble. Place the finished design in warm water to wash away the remaining stabilizer. The fabric-like WSS will dissolve a bit faster than the aqua film, but both will dissolve rather quickly.

The length of time required for rinsing depends on the amount of stiffness desired for the finished piece. The more the piece is rinsed, the softer it will be when dried. It is also okay to let the design soak for several hours to remove all stabilizer, especially in dense designs. Keep in mind that designs made using polyester or rayon thread will be a bit stiffer than those made with cotton thread.

Try not to squeeze or rub the design as it might cause some of the stitches to come undone, thus ruining the piece.

DRYING: Lay single pieces flat to dry. A good way to dry flat pieces is by laying them on sheets of plastic canvas (found in craft stores). If wet pieces are dried on paper or cloth towels they may adhere to the towel and cause fibers from the towels to stick to the pieces. If drying a bowl or box, you may want to find a similar shaped bowl or box to place it over while drying. Let pieces air dry until completely dry. Dried pieces can be flattened by carefully pressing with a steam iron.

STABILIZER SCRAPS: Save those scraps! Bigger pieces of stabilizer scraps can be patched and reused by dabbing a tiny amount of water to the end pieces and affixing them together, or by ironing them together using a pressing sheet. Smaller pieces can be dissolved in water for use as a paint-on stabilizer for other projects. The dissolved solution is brushed on to the fabric and left to dry. This then stiffens the fabric, providing additional stabilizing. Leftover solution can then be kept in the refrigerator for future use. (Add a small amount of rubbing alcohol to the solution to prevent mold from forming.)

Leftover scraps of WSS can also be used for re-stiffening lace later on if it has been washed and lost its firmness. Remaining scraps should be kept in an airtight container for future use.

Submitted by Andee in AZ and Vicky Krupka
for http://www.designsbysick.com